The white variety Pošip is Dalmatia’s star grape, and no other comes close to challenging this status. But the Grk variety, much less planted and a bit challenging to grow, has developed a devoted following in the past few years that has given rise to new plantings and increased anticipation. While we wait, we tasted 6 Croatian Grk wines to see how they rate.
Grk has been grown in Dalmatia for hundreds of years–so far, it has not been found anywhere else. Its primary vineyards in Lumbarda, on the island of Korčula, have a protected designation on the bottle label, but the variety has historically grown in much of central and southern Dalmatia.
Its newfound appeal is due to its quality. Although it is tricky to grow (it doesn’t self-pollinate, its berries develop unevenly) its wines have good acidity, and a sophistication and rigor to them that helps them pair well with food, especially Dalmatia’s fresh seafood. These wines also tend to show a little bitter twist, like many Italian whites, that effectively refreshes the palate. It is likely this bitter note, gorak in Croatian, that gives Grk its name.
Grk’s recent popularity has driven a rise in price, which hovers around 30 euros for most fresh Grk wines (sur lie versions are more expensive). The effect of scarceity on Croatian wine prices is especially evident here, where so little of this variety is planted. Prices, once high, rarely seem to come down, but with new Grk vineyards popping up (in Komarna, on Šolta . . .), at least there will soon be more Grk for those who want to pay for it.
The Tasting
Note: This tasting is meant to be readable, not comprehensive. We tasted 6 wines, not 60. The wines are listed in alphabetical order by producer. A star (*) indicates wines that stood out for their quality and flavor on the day of the tasting. Prices are estimates based on those at various shops in Croatia.
*Bire Grk 2024 (Lumbarda) €30
The Grks in this tasting divided evenly into “muscular” and more “delicate” styles. The Bire is one of the former. It is also a wine with a lot going on, generally a sign of quality. It begins with aromas of orange flowers followed by orange juice and zest, then the mineral notes kick in with wet stones or even a touch of “auto mechanic’s garage.” On the palate it is floral and citrus pith–there’s the bitterness of this variety. It’s not a delicate wine, but it is complex. “Warrants the 30 euros,” said guest tasters.
Cebalo Grk 2023 (Lumbarda) €30
Another robust Grk, the Cebalo’s weighty impression does not seem to be related to its alcohol, which is stated as a restrained 13% on the label. Instead, it may come down to the powerful earthiness of this wine, with its lemon-orange aromas, then flavors of resinous herbs (like the juniper and rosemary on the roadsides of Korčula) along with lemon, spicy lemon zest and bitter pith. A powdery acidity gives the wine texture.
Miljas Grk 2023 (Konavle) €30
The only Grk in this tasting not from the island of Korčula, it is instead from the mainland south of Dubrovnik. This wine contains juice from some 80-year-old Grk vines, proof that Grk is a heritage variety in Konavle. Overall this, the third of the muscular style of Grk we tasted, was much less citrussy. Instead, aromas were green plum and meadow grasses; flavors were green-tropical, meaning green mango and green papaya, plus green plum, with a touch of honey and some lemon pith for that Grk bitterness.
Grk Nobilo 2023 (Lumbarda) €40
The first of our three more delicate wines, the Nobilo is spicy and herbaceous, with something a little like fresh marijuana aroma plus lemon zest. The palate is lemony, floral, with a light but lasting bitterness and a touch of salty sea brine. Guest tasters said it was “earthy” and “creamier” than the other two bottles pictured above, with even a “hint of goat cheese.” But they also thought €40 was pushing the envelope.
Radovanović Grk 2024 (Smokvica) €26
With its lemon-drop and floral aromas and less of Grk’s characteristic bitterness, this version was popular with guest tasters, who said, “I could drink this all day.” “There’s no bite.” And, “Pleasant, easy, sippable.” It is delicate and fresh, perhaps the mildest in flavor of the wines tasted, with a little note of wet stones on the finish. Made from grapes grown in Smokvica, across Korčula to the west of Lumbarda.
*Zure Grk Bartul 2024 (Lumbarda) €29
This crowd favorite among the lighter Grks, “feels complicated enough, but it’s accessible,” said guest tasters. They found it “integrated . . . things seem to be coming together successfully.” It has medium body and refreshing acidity, and offers intense flavors of lemon-creamsicle (made from a scented Meyer lemon, perhaps), light floral notes and spicy lemon zest, plus the typical bitterness, like lemon pith. The finish is lemon and river rocks, and is satisfyingly long-lasting.
Cheers Croatia Magazine conducts wine tastings in the semi-blind format. This means that we know what wines we have, but they are placed in numbered bags so we can’t identify them during the tasting. Wines for tastings are purchased, or occasionally donated by the winery. See the magazine’s Affiliations and Gifts Policy for more information.