Croatia’s second biggest city has a lot to offer, but most visitors come for two main reasons. One is Diocletian’s palace, and the picturesque stone architecture of old-town Split. The other is the port, which is the best way to access the southern Dalmatian islands. Those in the know may eagerly await the wineries of Hvar or Korčula. But while you explore Diocletian’s cellars, imagining ancient amphoras of wine, their modern-day ancestors await you above. Here is Split for wine lovers.
The only winery in Split
No doubt there is wine fermenting away in Split’s private garages and cellars—this is Croatia, after all. But there is only one real winery in Split: Divina.
Owner and wine maker Ivan Dragičević has captured the essence of urban wineries, offering a luxurious welcome in the least likely place. The winery and tasting room are one outcome of a program in Split that leases empty bomb shelters for business use.
Photo: Staff/CCM
Divina is located beneath a 12-story residential block in a part of town there’s no reason to see. But get a group of friends together, descend the ramp beneath the building and pass the blast-proof vault door into the cool, and you will find a chicly designed space and seven expertly made wines from grape varieties sourced all over Dalmatia.
Dragičević is a generous host who will introduce you to Pošip, Babić, Trnjak and other local grapes while you enjoy regional delicacies in the safest place in Split. He prefers groups; if you can’t form one or join one, you can try the Divina wines at Monika’s (see below).
Contact: Ivan Dragičević, +385 (0)97 7762 407
Tasting wine in the land of castles
Kaštela may be confusing for non-Dalmatians: is it one place or many? The answer is both. It is the collective name of the town on the coastline facing Split, beneath the mountains on the way to the airport and Trogir. It is also seven villages, each named Kaštel-something and each originally built around a coastal fortification/palace (the kaštel, or castle). These were erected by Venetian noble families or clergy, mostly in the 1500s. As recently as 50 years ago the area was largely agricultural, and a handful of wineries thrive there today.
The latest development is Kaštela’s first winery restaurant, at Kastel Sikuli, atop a vineyard hillside in Kaštel Novi. This 32-seat gem features the fine cuisine of chef Nina Mravak paired with the precisely made wines of Ivan Kovačević, in a setting that offers possibly the loveliest view over Kaštela toward Split. Choose from set course offerings at lunch or dinner, presented by the winemaker himself.
Two of the best casual tasting rooms in Kaštela offer wines made from old traditional varieties that are grown nowhere else. Stop in at the seaside tasting room of Vina Bedalov, in Kaštel Kambelovac, and try a trio of reds that have family ties: the hearty Crljenak Kaštelanski (the original Zinfandel grape); the rare, local Dobričić; and the “child” of those two grapes, Plavac Mali. Other wines are available as well, presented with appetizers in themed flights.
In Kaštel Sućurac, just off the café-lined riva, is Matela Winery. Arrange for a small group in advance, and sit in the shade outside the fermentation room to try wines that will thrill your palate with their difference. They are made from Vlaška or Babica or Ninčuša grapes, varieties often referred to as “unknown sorts” that are nevertheless slowly becoming known again. Some are aged in acacia-wood barrels rather than oak. All are exciting, a chance to taste the history of Kaštela and wider Dalmatia in a personal, local setting.
Contact: Matija Kovač, +385 (0)91 5179 383
Information about these and hundreds of other winery tasting rooms in Croatia is available in the Winery Finder Tool on the side of our Home page.
Wine bars: six and counting
In a casual setting filled with happy chatter, an array of wines in different hues marches across the table in front of you. Small plates of local snacks stand waiting on the side. If this is your ideal wine tasting, stop at one of Split’s four classic wine bars or its two winery tasting rooms.
Lardo is a well-designed new wine bar in a Split residential neighborhood a 15-minute walk from old town. It offers wines from all over Croatia as well as a few affordable imported bottles, and is designed to offer a fun night out, Croatian-style: a group of friends shares a bottle and local snacks, lingering for hours, coming and going, talking and laughing.
Monika’s Wine Bar is a home for wine lovers in a picturesque square at the edge of Varoš where you can perch street-side and watch the world go by. The excellent “insider’s” wine selection features labels not on every list in town, and a new menu of Cro-Asian sushi is in development. Brunch is now available as well.
You can also visit this owner’s bucolic Jardin Wine Garden, a riverside setting in Žrnovnica, 15 minutes by car from Old Town. Groups of two or more people can reserve experiences ranging from a wine picnic with tapas to a full “chef’s table” dinner with wines. It’s a more relaxed and attentive presentation away from the urban bustle.
Back in Split’s historic center, Sip 27 is a newcomer from young chef/owner Filip Mihanović, who creates vibrantly flavorful Croatian tapas that beg to be photographed before they are eaten. There are plenty of wines by the glass here, and a knowledgeable staff to help you play–stop for a snack and a glass, or make a dinner of it. Sip 27 is for those who like to see art on their plate (and then eat it), but it doesn’t take itself too seriously.
Whether it’s dinner and live music you want, or perfectly presented flights of Croatian wine, you can find it at Zinfandel Food & Wine Bar. A mainstay of the Split wine scene for a decade plus, Zinfandel offers 20 to 30 wines by the glass and about 100 by the bottle. Just as important, the staff are educated and enthusiastic about the wines—the key to this friendly, bustling destination in a narrow stone lane.
For a masterclass in the wines of a single winery, find one of the urban tasting rooms in Split. The glass-enclosed outpost of Hvar Hills offers a view of the bustle of ACI Marina on Split’s “west coast,” with seasonal seating outdoors. The lushly comfortable Markus Fine Wines tasting room is nearby, perched beside the stairway to Marjan, while work proceeds on their new winery and tasting room in Kaštela.
A glass with a view
Some of the finest restaurants in Split devote an expert eye to their wine list, and offer alfresco afternoons, wineglass in hand, gazing out over garden, city or sea. The restaurants here lean towards fine dining, and all have an excellent selection of wines by the glass.
Artičok At the base of the Varoš neighborhood, Artičok offers rooftop seating, a closely curated wine list and contemporary food inspired by fresh Croatian ingredients.
Bokeria is the most casual of these, but the grand, brasserie-style setting in Old Town and broad wine list make it well worth a visit.
Dvor Enjoy bay views and the fresh scent of the sea in a terraced garden setting just above Firule beach. A favorite hideaway of Split locals.
Šug Close behind Old Town, this cozy courtyard restaurant feels like home–if only home offered elevated dishes made from local ingredients and a well-informed wine list.
ZOI Perch above the masses on the Split riva, on a terrace among the palm-tops and the ancient columns of Diocletian’s palace. A luxurious spot for an evening glass.
Wine shops
There are many different places to buy wine in Split, including supermarkets and gift shops. If you want an interesting selection of higher-end wines at the best prices, though, you want a wine shop (vinoteka). Here are four to choose from, each run by a local wine distributor. All will deliver in Split for larger orders, including to the marinas. A website is provided for each shop or related company, but some are Croatian-only. An in-person visit is your best bet, if possible, and the staff speaks English.
Moments is perhaps the fanciest of the four, with good gift options including gourmet food products. It is tucked just inside the back of Old Town near the art museum. They also have a web shop, which is separate from the store.
Split & Sip is across from the national theater, at the top of Marmontova. This small shop does double duty, offering not only shopping but guided tastings of wine, olive oil and Croatian specialty foods at their casual, central table.
Vinoteka Terra is near Briig Hotel, above Bačvice beach. Enter the restaurant Ma Toni and the wine shop is in the front of the old stone-vaulted cellar. Stay for lunch!
Winebox is tucked away behind the parking at Ul. Ivana Gundulića, a short walk from Old Town. The retail section is small, but carries a number of Croatian wineries that don’t appear elsewhere in Split, as well as a strong selection of French wines.
Wine Fairs
Time your trip for spring and you may be able to attend one of Split’s two wine fairs. Both are open to the public and offer hundreds of wines for tasting. Each winery has its own table and the winemaker or a knowledgeable family or staff member is on hand to answer questions.
The Wines of Dalmatia Festival takes place in March or April, sponsored by Vino Dalmacije, the regional wine association. The most recent festival featured 60 wineries from all over Dalmatia, plus informative workshops (in Croatian) on Dalmatian native grapes, food pairing and other topics.
Vinski Podrum, in late May, takes us back to the beginning—Diocletian’s cellars. More than 400 wines are available for tasting beneath the ancient stone vaults, from wineries in Dalmatia and beyond. A gourmet food section features cured meats, olive oils, chocolates and other delicacies. Wine workshops and evening parties are also part of the program.
Imagine the ghost of Diocletian looking on with approval, wineglass in hand!