This is a series of short reads about Croatia’s indigenous grape varieties. Here is Malvasija Dubrovačka, the signature white grape of Dubrovnik.
How to say it: mall-vass-ee-ya du-bro-vatch-ka
Why it’s important: It was historically revered for its quality and is uniquely suited to its hot growing area. Malvasija Dubrovačka is mentioned in documents in the Dubrovnik archives from the 14th century, but by the mid-20th century it was all but extinct. After the war in the 1990s in Croatia, enologist Niko Karaman of the southern Dalmatian Konavle region worked with members of the faculty of agriculture in Zagreb to revive Malvasija Dubrovačka from just three healthy vines. Now some 40 hectares are grown, mostly in Konavle.
Wine styles: Dry wines from Malvasija Dubrovačka are rich, with intense peach/apricot and floral flavors and so far tend to be unoaked. The grape has an unusual amount of acidity for a southern variety, and has even been used recently to make sparkling wine. It is also used to make sweet wines.
How to drink it: In Dalmatia, the dry wine would be served with brudet (seafood stew with tomato). The sweet version pairs beautifully with rožata, a sort of crème caramel that is also made in Dubrovnik.
Little-known fact: Malvasija Dubrovačka also grows on the Lipari island chain off the northeast coast of Sicily (where it is called Malvasia di Lipari), on Sardinia (Malvasia di Sardegna), and the island of Madeira (Malmsey)—as well as a handful of other places (and names).
Malvasija Dubrovačka to Try: Crvik, Miljas, Zoro (Konavlje); Volarević (Komarna)