How to say it: trib-ih-drahg
Why it’s important: Over centuries, this red variety was slowly pushed out of the vineyard by another Croatian native, Plavac Mali. The reason? Plavac is simply easier to grow in the hot climate of the Dalmatian coast. Tribidrag’s resurgence comes from the discovery in 1991 that this variety is genetically the same grape as Zinfandel, which is hugely important economically in California. Further, it is clear that Tribidrag (aka Crljenak Kaštelanski—don’t worry about pronouncing that one!) was the original—that the California variety came from Croatia. Knowing these origins gives California growers more information about their variety and how best to grow it. In Croatia, it has saved Tribidrag. In 1991 there were only 24 known vines remaining; now there are 73 hectares planted, and counting.
Wine styles: Different regions and wine-making practices mean that California Zinfandel lovers may not immediately recognize their favorite in Dalmatia. The California style often seems fruitier, juicier. It may also have matured in American oak barrels, known for their rich vanilla aromas. The Dalmatian version, while fruity, can also be spicy or resinous-herbal, and a little more angular. It is usually matured in a combination of barrels from France, Croatia or the US. Both have elevated alcohol—above 14 percent and sometimes over 15 percent.
How to drink it: In the coastal region of Dalmatia, Tribidrag is often poured with lamb on the spit or lamb peka (braised on the hearth under a dome piled with coals). In California, Zinfandel is known as a perfect wine for classic hamburgers or grilled sausages.
Little-known fact: In Croatia, the name Tribidrag, Crljenak Kaštelanski or Zinfandel may be stated as the grape variety on the bottle label.
Tribidrag to try: See our tasting for 6 bottles to try. Others producers include Ante Sladić, Vuina and Zlatan Otok.